Hot pot—the fondue-like meal of dipping meat, vegetables, and noodles into bubbling broth at the table—is the only meal. Beware: this is not your parents Chinese restaurant. Pop music blares from the speakers, and the tables are populated by hip young Asian kids.
Hot pot, unlike, say, soufflé, does not betray anything by its appearance alone. You cannot tell if the broth is good until you taste it.
And even then you cannot make up your mind right away. Does it taste good right when its brought out? Does it taste good after half an hour of simmering with vegetables and meats? An hour? Hot pot is not only opaque—it also evolves.
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